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Many times, when people hear about billiards and pool, another form of the game is often mentioned. This game, called Snookers, varies from the American form of pool. Though it is in the same group as the other cue sports, it actually stands in a league of it’s own. Aside from learning the different variations of pool play, some people enjoy taking that learning experience a step further and trying this well known game.

In Snooker, the main object of the game is to score more points than your opponent. We are not used to the point system when playing billiards or pool, instead, we are more concerned with the ball count left on the table and the final sinking of the winning ball. Snooker is an entirely different game, with different rules, a different table, and, as mentioned, a different objective.

Snooker is generally played on a table much larger than a pool table, measuring 6′ by 12′. There are also smaller tables, measuring 5′ by 10′, in which the game can be played. The larger size table is the most commonly used. The Snooker table have cushions that are more narrow than those of a traditional pool table, and they curve into the pocket openings.

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Like pool, Snooker is also a two player game. As mentioned above, the object is to outscore your opponent. This is done by sinking the balls with a higher point value. Snooker is played with 22 balls, as opposed to the 15 we are used to. These balls have no numbers, so the value of the balls are based solely on color. There are 15 balls that are solid red, six balls of different colors, and the cue ball. The point values for the balls is as follows. Red balls are worth one point, yellow is worth 2, green is worth 3, brown is worth 4, blue is worth 5, pink is worth 6, and black is worth 7.

The rack is much different and the overall rules can take a while to get used to. There are many sites available online that will describe these things in great detail. The purpose here was to give an over-view of the game. A more in depth description of the game and the rules can be found at www.billiardworld.com/snooker.html

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By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

Have you ever wondered if what you know about Pool Billiards is accurate? Consider the following paragraphs and compare what you know to the latest info on Pool Billiards.

Historically the umbrella term for the sport as a whole was billiards. While that familiar name is still employed variably as a generic name for all games, the word’s usage has splintered into more inclusive competing meanings among certain groups and geographic regions. For example, in the United Kingdom, billiards refers exclusively to English Billiards, while in the United States it is sometimes used to refer only to carom games and by a minority to eight-ball (being the only cue game known to many players).

In our time, the two can easily be exchanged and mean the same thing. When people refer to one, it is assumed the other is also being included. On the technical side, there is a difference. Billiards is played with smaller balls. In billiards, only three balls are used white, yellow and red and both the white and the yellow ball can act as the strikers. Billiards is basically pool without pockets. Usually the cloth on a billiards table is much faster. The object in billiards (3 cushion billiards) is to hit the object ball then go three rails and hit the other ball, or hit 3 rails and hit both object balls with the cue ball (these are called caroms).

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Most of us are familiar with pool and pool tables. Some of us may be aware of the different variations of the pool game, a few being eight-ball, nine-ball and cut throat. As stated above, billiards is played on a table with no pockets. We know that pool tables are constructed with 6 pockets. The game is played with two sets of balls, each containing seven balls, with one set being solid colored and the other striped. The two sets are combined into one set and then completed by a black eight ball. This is a standard set of pool balls, and can be broken up to play different versions of the game.

Though there are vast differences between the two games, they are commonly grouped as one and refered to as cue sports. If someone says they’re going to shoot a game of billiards, we all know what they are referring to in general. It all depends on what style of the game you would like to play. Billiards is a form of pool. So perhaps in future reference, it should all be covered by using the term pool, unless you are actually playing by billiards rules and regulations.

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By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO

The following article presents the very latest information on Pool Billiards. If you have a particular interest in Pool Billiards, then this informative article is required reading.

As with many things, one side is stronger than the other. For most people, this hold true with their eyes, and one eye is much more dominant in seeing alignments. Normally, right-handers are right-eyed and vise versa for left. There are cases of being cross-dominant where the right-handed has a strong left eye, and there are also cases of no dominant eye at all, known as ambi-ocular. For aiming, locate your dominant eye directly over your cue. If you are cross dominant, this may call for some adjustments in your position, but be sure to be aiming when you are lined up and over your cue.

There is a quick way to test yourself. Hold your thumb up, arm extended and block out a distant object, a lamp or a vase. Don’t focus on your thumb, but on the distant object. Your dominant eye will be in line with your thumb while your non-dominant eye will be seeing past it. When you close your non-dominant eye, your thumbs should be completely blocking the object.

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Aside from aiming by use of your dominant eye, there is another way to accurately aim your shot. This other technique for aiming is by the use of your cue stick. First, you need to determine the line of path of your object ball to the pocket and point your cue stick in that direction. Next, you must consider the width of the object ball. Place the tip of your cue stick at 1/2 width from the object ball. This is your aim point. The last thing you need to do is simply point your cue stick aim at the “aim” point and stroke.

In order to shoot center pocket, pinpoint aiming is required. It feels nice to have an accurate shot rather then to make a sloppy pocket and on long shots an accurate aim becomes more of a necessity. Pinpoint accuracy requires a pinpoint aim, that is, when determining your object ball contact point do not have a general area. Make your ball contact point be like a pinpoint, not like the size of a dime. If your object ball contact point is sloppy, so will be your end result. It also takes total concentration on that pinpoint spot to not lose it, in other words, keep your eye on the object ball and not jump back and forth between the cue ball and object ball.

As you get used to aiming, the process will not be mechanical, your movement will flow naturally. When you find yourself missing for unknown reasons, go back to the basics and it is a good chance you will get out of the slump. Perfecting any aiming technique will take a lot of time, but try not to get discouraged. Explore the various techniques and see what works best for you. These are not rules set in stone, just some aiming guidelines to help develop your aiming style and technique.

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By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO

Are you looking for some inside information on Pool Billiards? Here’s an up-to-date report from Pool Billiards experts who should know.

First, let’s start by explaining what a mechanical bridge is. Many times there are shots that cannot be reached no matter how much you lean across the table! That’s where a bridge comes in handy. The mechanical bridge, also called rake, crutch or rest, is an accessory of the billiard sports table and consists of a stick with a bridge head mounted at its end to support the shaft of the cue stick replacing the hand bridge during shots difficult to reach. The stick or handle of the mechanical bridge is very similar in shape to the cue stick. The bridge head has notches or grooves, usually at various heights, in which the cue shaft can rest. The contour of the bridge head should be smooth in order not to mar the cue shaft or rip the threads of the table-cloth when being used.

Many amateurs are hesitant to use the bridge mainly because they don’t know the proper way to do so. Going through the following steps will take away that worry and help your game in the long run. Taking care not to hit any surrounding balls, carefully place the bridge on the table approximately 5 inches away from the cue ball. Now place the cue in the slot (usually 3 or 4 available) that will allow you to strike the cue ball as level as possible and at the location you desire.

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Once you have found the slot you would like to use, place the bridge flat on the table if you can and hold it down with one hand. Now, grasp your cue toward the end, leaving the tip to be supported by the bridge. Strike the cue ball with a straight, even stroke and immediately lift the bridge off the table. You have now completed a successful bridge shot.
As with the rest of the game, this will take some time to get used to. Parctice different shots and angels and become comfortable using the bridge. It will be an important part of your game as you develop.

Many aficionados and most professionals employ the bridge whenever the intended shot so requires. Some players, especially current or former snooker players, use a screw-on cue butt extension instead of or in addition to the mechanical bridge. It is suggested that once you have the basic game down pat, that you begin to experiment with additional equipment such as this. The sooner you become familiar with it, the more proficient you will become and you will progress as a player. Practice with the mechanical bridge until you feel you are comfortable enough to apply it to your every-day game playing. You will learn that the time spent on practicing with the techniques and angles will not have been time wasted, but will aid your game immensely.

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By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

When you think about Pool Billiards, what do you think of first? Which aspects of Pool Billiards are important, which are essential, and which ones can you take or leave? You be the judge.

The most important technique learned and the one that should be mastered first is the grip. The casual player has a different grip than that of a professional player, but in either case, if your game is to progress, you must master your grip. It should be comfortable, relaxed, and remain fairly consistent throughout the range of the stroke. A relaxed grip is usually best since too tight of a grip can tense up muscles in the arm that can cause your stroke to perform erratically. Likewise, too loose and you could lose control.

One way is to play with an all finger grip where all five fingers remain in constant contact with the butt all the way through the stroke and never alter except for perhaps a slight squeeze on contact with the cue ball. This method requires the cue arm to be perfectly vertical at address of the cue ball or the cue will lift on the backswing causing a scooping motion. This is the most common way to grip a cue stick among beginners and casual players, and allows the most control. Do not put your thumb on top of the cue, because this will lock up your wrist, and it’s very important for your wrist to stay relaxed.

Most pros use a different grip, only the thumb and first finger remain constant , the others flex open on the backstroke and close on the forward stroke. This has the effect of tracking the cue and keeping it on line, also greatly increasing cue ball control and cue power. On the final backswing the little finger practically comes off the cue altogether, this allows the cue to remain flat , on the follow through the fingers all close and return to the original position.

No matter what style grip you use, it is important to keep your grip loose and relaxed. This will allow you to follow through on your stroke. A proper grip allows you control and accurate shots. Bad grips will limit your potential for improvement. At all times, your cue should feel well balanced in your hand. For normal shots, your hand should be in the center of the wrap. For shots that require more “touch” and accuracy, try moving your hand forward on the wrap, shortening the length between your bridge hand and the ferrule. For shots that require more power, try moving your hand back on the wrap, lengthening the distance between your bridge hand and the ferrule. Always remember to stay down and follow through on your shots.

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The key to determine your grip is to find the balance point of the cue. To find the balance point, take your index finger and balance the cue stick on it so that it teeters on its own. Once it is balanced, take a mental note of the point on the cue stick where your finger was holding it and use this as your balance point or reference point. In general, but depending on how tall you are, you should grip the cue at least six inches back from the balance point towards butt end of the cue stick. Shorter players should place their grip hand slightly closer to the balance point we found earlier, while taller players should put their gripping hand a greater distance away from the balance point. This process will eliminate the chance of developing a bad grip and will start your beginners’ career off on the right foot.

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By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

When you’re learning about something new, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the sheer amount of relevant information available. This informative article should help you focus on the central points.

Obviously, one of the major pieces of equipment needed to play pool is the set of balls. Without them, there would be no game! The balls are designed specifically for the game and coincide with the physics involved in overall play. As you read, you will find out how the balls are made, what materials are used, regulation weights and more. You will soon find that it is not just an ordinary orb placed on the table, and that much design and engineering is involved.

The earliest balls were made of wood clay. These were used for years until the use of ivory came into play. Ivory balls were short lived. By the 1800′s, millions of elephants were being slaughtered to obtain the ivory used to make the balls as well as many other items. Only eight balls could be made from one elephant! Seeing this as unfit, a new material was sought after.

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A composition material was then invented, called cellulose nitrate. It was later commercially branded Celluloid, also known as the first industrial plastic to be marketed. Thought to be a great invention for making the balls, the material was soon not accepted as it caused the balls to occasionally explode, making these plastic billiard balls impractical. The invention of this material served many other useful purposes as the use of plastic became more accepted, but as for the pool game, it was unacceptable.

Other compounds were experimented with until the perfect material had been found. Today’s balls are cast from phenolic resin. This material is resistant to chipping and cracking and has become an industry standard. It is the only ball material used today in play by professionals. There are lower grade balls made of polyester, but use of these result in shorter ball and cloth life.

The balls we commonly see today are made of resin and are regulated by weight and color. The standard ball has a weight of 5.5 to 6 oz. with the cue ball at a standard 6 oz. The balls are colored and grouped into solids and stripes and numbered accordingly. Custom balls are available offering an assortment of colors and markings and are often used in trick shooting to add visual appeal.

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By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

Have you ever wondered what exactly is up with Pool Billiards? This informative report can give you an insight into everything you’ve ever wanted to know about Pool Billiards.

First of all, take caution when using this term. A push-out is very different from a push-shot. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the terms and make sure you are referring to the correct thing. A push shot refers to a type of foul committed during play, where as a push out is a technique used during the game.

At pool, a push shot involves a very special kind of stroke and is played when the cue ball is frozen to the object ball. This stroke is a foul. (At pool it is legal to shoot towards a ball the cue ball is frozen to, assuming no other foul, and with a normal stroke.) In a push shot, the tip is brought slowly, slowly, very slowly up to the cue ball until it is just touching or about to touch, and then the tip is accelerated for the shot.

There are two examples of when a push-shot is used. The first is when a ball is frozen to the rail close to a corner pocket. The cue ball is frozen to the object ball and straight out from the rail. The shot is straight towards the object ball, with the tip placed on the equator of the cue ball with lots of side away from the pocket. Once very gentle contact of tip-to-ball is made the tip is gradually pushed forward and the object ball sort of slips out from behind the cue ball and goes straight into the near pocket.

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The second example is when the cue ball is on the foot spot, and an object ball is frozen as if it had been spotted; both are on the foot string. A desirable object ball is in the jaws of one of the foot pockets. A legal way to pocket the hung ball is to point the cue stick at a point on the foot rail half way between the center of the rail and the target pocket, and shoot a normal center ball stroke. An illegal push shot is to elevate the butt of the stick to about 45 degrees, address the cue ball for extreme follow, and shoot a gradual push shot. In this case the cue ball will nearly ignore the object ball, and go close to the line of aim, rather than the double “angle” of the first (legal) method.

So as not to get too confused, try to keep in mind that a “push out” ismost commonly used when playing nine-ball. The player who shoots the shot immediately after a legal break may play a push out in an attempt to move the cue ball into a better position for the option that follows. On a push out, the cue ball is not required to contact any object ball nor any rail, but all other foul rules still apply. The player must announce the intention of playing a push out before the shot, or the shot is considered to be a normal shot. Any ball pocketed on a push out does not count and remains pocketed except the 9-ball. Following a legal push out, the incoming player is permitted to shoot from that position or to pass the shot back to the player who pushed out. A push out is not considered to be a foul as long as no rule is violated.

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By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

In general, it is difficult to tell if you would like a cue stick just by reading about it. Even the terms that different people use to describe these characteristics (hard, soft, harsh, stiff, forgiving, well-balanced, etc.) are subjective and difficult to quantify. Some of the important things can be quantified (length, weight, balance point, shaft taper, shaft diameter, squirt), but they’re not the whole story. And if you are a beginner, or seriously working on your game for the first time, you can expect your own preferences to change as your game matures.

As a beginning billiards player, most of you might only be using cue sticks provided by the billiards place where you play. However, if you want to really improve your game you need to have your own cue so you won’t have the problem of having to adjust to the length of the cue or the weight of the cue or the diameter of the cue tip. It is important to take note (while you still don’t have a cue stick) the type of cue that you feel most comfortable with. Experiment with different cue sticks. Examine the weight, the length and the diameter of the tip. After you’ve decided on what is most comfortable to you then you are ready to buy one.

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There are some points to consider when shopping for your cue. First, make sure that the cue stick is straight and not crooked. Although most of the production cues are not crooked, it’s always good to check just in case. You can do this by rolling the cue stick on a flat surface, if it is crooked then you will notice it right away. Another way of looking at the stick is to look at the butt end of the cue while pointing the other end downwards then roll it a few times and you should be able to notice if it is crooked or not. Second, the weight of the cue stick. Typically, a cue stick weighs between 18 to 21 ounzes. Find out what weight is comfortable for you and stick with it. Third, the length of the cue stick should be dependent the length of your arm. Longer arms, longer stick. The length of production cues typically starts at 57 inches.

If you would like to customize it a bit, getting a two-part cue will add about $30 to your price. You can go further and add on leather grips and some decorations. Rule of thumb is that if you pay more than $100 for a cue stick, you are paying for brand and ornamentation, not so much quality. A good tip is probably more important than the cue. Shun a cue that’s more than two parts, has a screw-on tip, is painted in festive colors, or is made in Taiwan. Made in Japan is OK, the Adam line, made there, is one of the best. Get the best tips you can, the return on the money you spend is greater there than anywhere else. Seek good construction over great looks. Be sure to compare the cue sticks before choosing the one that catches your eye. Feel comfortable with the weight and the length. You will be using this stick for years to come, so be sure your investment is just right for your style of playing.

Take time to consider the points presented above. What you learn may help you overcome your hesitation to take action.

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By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

Do you ever feel like you know just enough about Pool Billiards to be dangerous? Let’s see if we can fill in some of the gaps with the latest info from Pool Billiards experts.

We all know that a game cannot start without the break. A good break will lead to a good game. There are many factors one needs to consider when breaking the rack. Often a different cue is used specifically for breaking. It’s best not to get too anxious and try to be a power breaker from the get go. Start with a basic break until your game progresses. The most important part of your game will be your break, so be sure you are very comfortable with it. Once you find a position and stance that is comfortable and you break the balls effectively, stay with that technique.

It can be particularly difficult for a beginning pool player to break a racked set of balls. This is a good way to practice and become comfortable with breaking. Start by putting the cue ball on the head spot. (When you get better, you can position the cue ball anywhere next to or behind the head spot to make the break.) After making sure your grip is correct and you have a comfortable stance, aim the cue ball to hit the leading ball of the rack squarely in the front. Do not stop your shot when you make contact with the cue. Follow through with a smooth motion for an extra 6-18 inches. Practicing this now will help you later as you add speed and power to your break. Always try to hit the cue ball as hard as you can without your cue slipping off to one side or off the ball completely. A foul on a break is a very embarrassing way to start.

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You will find that once you begin to gain confidence in your break, you will shoot harder and perform better breaks. Ideally, a good break is one in which no balls are left touching another ball. The perfect break, when playing eight ball, would be to sink the eight ball off the break shot, thus gaining an immediate win! Though this situation arises rarely, it has been achieved and can be quite a thrill the first time it is accomplished.

The break is probably the most important shot of the game. It will set the playing field for all the shots to follow. Spend time on your breaking techniques and styles. Once you are comfortable breaking with the cue on the head spot, move the cue around to different positions. Moving the cue and striking the rack from different angles will have a different effect on the break. Many players have mastered their break so that they sink at least two balls every time they break. It will take time and patience, but this is a shot you must master if you ever want to become a decent player. Often, players place the cue ball in the same position on the table when breaking. After trial and error and many hours of practice, you will find your own “hot spot” and will have an effective break almost every time.

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By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

You should be able to find several indispensable facts about Pool Billiards in the following paragraphs. If there’s at least one fact you didn’t know before, imagine the difference it might make.

Starting the game with a good break is extremely important. Ideally, a good break is one in which the balls scatter and none are left touching another. Initially, one would expect to use a heavy weighted cue for the break. Theoretically, that would make sense, to get the most power for your break. First, one must understand the weights of different cue sticks. The average weight would be 19 oz. Thus making a light cue 18 oz and a heavy cue 20 oz. or more. Past experience has shown me that it really comes down to personal preference. However, many argue that it is all about physics, so let’s take a look at that.

Break cue weight should be based on simple physics. The speed of the cue ball is what matters when breaking. A simple equation to remember is mass times velocity. The mass is referring to the object being propelled. In this case, it would be the cue ball, which weighs 6 oz. The velocity is the way in which we propel the cue. So what we need to be concerned with is how fast we can propel the cue ball with the most control, not so much the power behind it.

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A heavy cue will result in more force creating more momentum. However, a light cue will allow you more acceleration. After taking all this into consideration, they both seem to have their advantages, which once again, leaves it to personal preference. The force behind your shot will not only be determined by the weight of the cue, but by the players’ style and positioning. Regardless of the weight being used, the power comes more from a solid contact on the cue and proper grip and stance.

It would be suggested not to assume the break need to be made with one or the other. Try them both, with slight alterations in your stance and positioning. You will find which is most comfortable and effective. The more you experiment, the more proficient your break will become, whether it’s based on the laws of physics or personal preference. When learning new techniques, always remember to master the basics first. Find your comfortable position and grip when breaking and master that approach before attempting to become a power breaker.

Is there really any information about Pool Billiards that is nonessential? We all see things from different angles, so something relatively insignificant to one may be crucial to another.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO